Please choose:
Home

INSTRUCTION

Casting Instruction
Fishing Instruction
Mullet Madness!
The BFCC
FLY TYING
Fly Tying

Prices and Rates
How to find us
Contact Us


All content Copyright of
Corporate Fly Fishing

2 Church End, Wath,
Ripon, NorthYorks, HG4 5et
Tel: +44 (0) 1765 640029
info@corporateflyfishing.com


Fly Tying

Here you'll find some twists on familiar themes along with some flies original to Carl Hutchinson. We have included these flies as we have found a way of either improving them or tying them in an unconventional way Check back for more flies in a regular basis

Saltwater flies

 

 

The Polarbear Deceiver

Hook: Mustad 34011 or Partridge CS29 Roman Moser
Thread: Grey 6/0
Wing: Polar Bear Green, Blue, White, Pink etc.
Sparkle: Pearl Sparkle
Overwing: Angelflash to match
Eye: Holo stick on 2-3mm.
Z Poxy for head

Effect required
The fly should be slim and light with the hook shank showing through the translucent hair as a backbone. The fly is designed to hang in the water when stripping stops and not sink.

Tying method

1) Start thread at Eye and take back 3-5mm (depending on size of fly) and back to the beginning then once more to the back. This forms a bed for the hair to lie on.
2) Cut a pinch of white polar bear hair and remove fluffy under fur with fingers. Tie in on thread starting at the back of the thread.
3) Wind forward and stop short of the eye, trim Polar Bear hair ends and whip over the cut part. Return the thread to the back of the tying point.
4) Take two pieces of flash usually pearl and tie in on top of the white hair
5) Snip a small bunch of coloured hair and remove underfluff. Tie in on top slightly longer than the white hair.
6) Take a small pinch of Angel hair darker than the colour Polar bear hair used and stagger the end so it is tapered. Tie in FACING FORWARDS over the eye. Secure with thread and take the thread back to the rear of the fly head.
7) Fold the Angel Hair over the fly and tie in with three turns at the back of the head and finish with three half hitches. This ensures the angel hair shows on the top of the head.
8) Attach the eyes using a tiny drop of super glue. Epoxy over with clear epoxy (Z Poxy). Rotate until dry

Double Deceiver

Tying as above but bend the hook into the above shape (turning out the hook point slightly) and tie two deceiver on the same hook.

The Polar Bear Clouser

Hook: Mustad 34011/34007 or Partridge CS29 Roman Moser
Thread: White 6/0
Wing: Polar Bear Green, Blue, White, Pink etc.
Sparkle: Pearl Sparkle
Eye: GOLD dumbbell eyes 2-3mm.
Varnish:
Sally Hansen's Hard As Nails.

Effect required
The fly should be Slim. The fly is designed to sink in the water when stripping stops and rise when stripped.

Tying method

1) Start thread at Eye and take back to the start of the bend and back to the beginning then once more to the back about 1/3 down the fly. This forms a bed for the hair to lie on.
2) Place the dumbbell Eyes on top of the hook and secure with figure of eight turns until secure. Take the thread around the turns horizontally between the hook and the eyes to really tighten them down. Add a spot of superglue to the whipping. Move the thread to the front of the eyes.
3) Cut a pinch of white polar bear hair and remove fluffy under fur with fingers. Tie in starting in front and close to the eyes and tie forwards stopping short of the eye, trim off excess hair, whip over and tie back to the eyes.
4) Take the thread behind the eyes and take the hair over the eyes and tie in as close as you can. This should form a nice layer over the eyes. Continue to tie in the hair to the start of the bend and back to the eyes.
5) Turn the hook upside down in the vise and take the thread to the front of the eyes.
6)
Take two to four pieces of flash, usually pearl, and tie in on top of the white hair in front of the eyes.
7) Snip a small bunch of coloured hair and remove underfluff. Tie in on top slightly longer than the white hair in front of the eyes.
8) Cover the entire thread and the hair over the eyes with two coats of strong varnish and dry.

 

The Worm

There are two versions of the Worm Fritz (top) and SLF (bottom).

Fritz Worm

Hook: Mustad 34007
Thread: To match 6/0
Tail: Long fibre Fritz
hackle: To match
Dubbing loop: Cortland Microbacking or similar
Varnish: Sally Hansen's Hard As Nails.
Head: Brass cone (if required)

Effect required

The fly should be mobile and retrieved along the (sandy) bottom or slightly above with a sinking or intermediate line.

Tying method (requires dubbing loop!)

1) Place cone head on hook and place hook in the vise. Begin tying thread and whip back the the bend and return to eye. There is no need to secure the cone head.
2) Tie in a loop of Cortland Micro backing TWICE as long as the tail required*
*Note: If a trailing hook is required place this on the loop before tying in!
3) Catch in a long length of Fritz leaving enough free to wind down the body of the fly (about 10 cm). (usually still on the card)
4) Attach Turbo Dubbing tool to the loop. Wind the fritz down one leg of the loop to the Turbo dubbing tool*
*Note: if trailing hook is required place the hook in the middle of the leg of the loop you are winding down and keep in place with the fritz.

5) Once the fritz is wound right down one leg of the loop, cut to length and HOLD IN POSITION. Apply varnish down the other leg and begin to spin Turbo dubbing tool whilst pinching the loop closed above it. Once enough twists have been added release the loop with the holding hand So it whizzes into a dubbing rope. Twist the turbo dubbing tool some more.
6) Take hold of the dubbing rope in the centre (this will be the end of the tail) and offer the end with the Turbo Dubbing tool to the hook. Release the centre of the loop and it should twirl once more.
*
*Note: If adding a trailing hook this will now be trailing)
7) Tie in the end with the turbo dubbing tool and remove tool, trim excess.
8) Wind the 10 cm free fritz (where we originally tied in the fritz) down the hook to the eye in touching turns. Tie in and also tie in hackle if required
9) Wind hackle as usual and tie in behind Cone head and finish with three half hitches. Add a spot of Varnish to finish.

SLF Worm

The tying is as above except the following:

Instead of winding the fritz down one leg, dub both legs with SLF each in a contrasting colour (for Ragworm use Burgundy and olive green). When twisted this gives a variegated look to the final worm looking like the burgundy legs on a green ragworm).

Dub the body with a blend of the two colours used.

 

We recommend:

Home | Instruction | Club Days | Corporate Days | Residential courses | Contact Us | Our fishings